This article was published in
Countryside Voice in the summer of 2012.
You might be enjoying your
breakfast as you settle down to read this. Delicious as it may be, how much of
what you’re eating today is produced locally? Your bacon and eggs might be
British, but are they from a farm down the road? Such questions lie at the
heart of a new approach towards nurturing our environment and enhancing our
national food security.
In recent years, issues as diverse
as rising food prices, unemployment, failing farms and the decline of town
centres have all hit the headlines. To different degrees, they are all the
results of a long-term food strategy that is based on internationally sourced,
mass-produced cheap food, much of which is sold in large out-of-town
As Tim Lang, the
Professor of Food
Policy at City University London, says `
We currently have a highly concentrated,
oligarchic food retail market which is owned by very big and powerful food
companies and supermarket chains who dictate what, how and where the British
eat and shop. People have ceded responsibility to the power brokers within the
There is, however, a way to tackle
such problems, and that is to go local. CPRE [Campaign to Protect Rural
England] has spent the past five years mapping local ‘food webs’ by conducting
meticulous research, supported by the Big Lottery Fund, in 19 different
locations in England. In
June, it published its findings in a national report
From field to fork: The
value of England’s local food webs, which
you can download from the Resources section of the CPRE website.
It makes fascinating reading.
The report defines
a local food web as ‘the network of links between
people who buy, sell, produce and supply food in an area’, while ‘local food’
is defined as that with ‘its main ingredients grown or produced within 30 miles
of where it was bought’.
that local food webs are often under-recognised – yet where they’re nurtured,
then can help create vibrant town centres and a thriving countryside. The
dominance of superstores has undermined their important role, which in turn has
led to the need to map food webs and moderate local planning to protect the
Beverly Kinnaird was one of a
group of volunteers who undertook the research
for Ledbury, south-east Herefordshire.
‘It was a real eye-opener’ she says. ‘I hadn’t realised how much locally
produced food was sold here.
became fascinated by how closely local food and local jobs are linked.
‘We were given step-by-step instructions
by the CPRE. We started by asking shops whether they sold any local food, then
we’d trace the products back to the supplier,’ Beverley continues.
‘Some of the products were processed
food and some were direct from farms.
I hadn’t realised, for example, that my butcher sold local meat.
Yet I’ve been buying meat from him for
As in many English towns, few shops
in Ledbury publicised the fact that they sold local food.
‘There is often a perception that local
food is very expensive and that supermarkets are cheap, but this is not always
the case,’ says Thea Platt, CPRE’s Mapping Local Foods Webs Project
‘For example, in every
location we’ve mapped, there has been at least one community enterprise.
These have taken a new approach to
supplying people with affordable food.’
Crucially, the report found that
pound-for-pound spending in small, independent local food outlets supported
three times the number of jobs than the outlets of national grocery chains,
while it also found that money spent on local food recirculated within the
local economy for longer.
estimated that it could be contributing Ł6.75 billion a year to local
Ledbury itself has changed as
result of the research. Last year, its 10,000 residents were divided over
applications first from Tesco, and then from Sainsbury’s, to open large
supermarkets outside the town. ‘Without our research, we couldn’t have put the
case against them opening so clearly,’ says Beverly.
“Even then, the Mayor had to cast the deciding vote.’
He voted against the Sainsbury’s
development. Shops now advertise local products more, and residents have formed
their own Ledbury Food Group to encourage local food sales through initiatives ranging
from farmers’ markets to food trails.
The CPRE report has highlighted
many such examples of communities in
Thea says, ‘I’ve been
working on the project for five years now, and it’s been absolutely fascinating
and very exciting. On the one side, the doom and gloom of the effect of supermarkets
is a reality, but the flipside is that there are signs of local food networks
nationwide and some are flourishing.
It’s a lovely thing to see the diversity of producers and suppliers, and
the produce available.
recession there’s been a lot of innovation.`
Helen Truman, the woman behind
Plenty Provisions in St Leonards-on-Sea, East Sussex is one of this new breed
‘We opened in May
2009 and, despite the recession, our business has grown year on year’ she
‘The area was being
regenerated and lots of people advised me against opening here, but it’s a
great little place and just felt right.
What’s interesting is that we now have all sorts of really interesting,
quirky little shops around us, and when we started opening on Sundays, they
followed suit, so now it has a lovely atmosphere.`
Quality local food was part of
‘We probably stock
about 20-25% local produce in the shop.
I try to source as locally as I can, although produce can come from Kent
and other parts of Sussex.
provide an outlet for small producers and I think that can make a real
difference when you’re starting out.’
Helen’s shop embodies a renewed
sense of community that is forming where local food webs are growing.
‘A lot of people really support local
‘They like to know how something like
local honey is made and find out where it is from.
Quite a few customers tell us that they’d rather eat less of
something that is really good quality, such as our local artisan bread, than
more of something that is cheaper, but not as good, like a mass-produced
Local support has been key to
otherproducers, such as farmer John Sherrell, who created a box
scheme to sell his beef, lamb and free-range eggs from Great Prideaux Farm in
‘I had the idea 13
years ago during the BSE cattle crisis,” he says.
‘All the surrounding villages knew that we’d never had a
case and wanted to buy direct from us.’
About 80% of his sales are within six miles of the farm, but he stresses
that it would much harder to do without the support of his local abattoir,
which developed its butchery and packaging side, so that meat can be butchered
and labelled to order.
animals go from field to abattoir to cook, cutting out unnecessary food miles.
John says ‘One of the good things
about a local food web is that it’s fairly resilient, in that if you’re
supplying people with decent-quality food they will stick with you through
thick and thin.
It’s been a tough
time economically, but I haven’t lost any of my customers.
There is a great sense of loyalty.’
There is also the added benefit of understanding your customers, as he points
out: ‘I know that I can sell X number of animals a year at a certain price,
which allows me to plan for the future and gives us stability.’
One of the findings of the CPRE
report is that online shopping will increasingly dominate how food is sold.
Internet sales have doubled from 5.1% to 10.2% since 2000, and are anticipated
to rise to 20% by 2020.
this could damage local high streets, but it could also be used to encourage
local box schemes.
Ginny Mayall, of Pimhill Millnear Shrewsbury in Shropshire has found that both have transformed
her family business of growing and milling organic oats and wheat. ‘Box schemes
have made a huge difference to us.
In the 1980’s when the supermarkets started to expand, we retracted our
business to local trade, rather than sell to them,’ she says.
‘However, the Riverford and Abel &
Cole organic box schemes contacted us, and they now form the backbone of our
They gave us the
confidence to re-brand and stay independent.
‘The internet has also made a huge
difference to our business.
like to connect with the person growing the food.
We’ll post pictures of the harvesting of the oats,’ Ginny
‘What’s amazing is that
people are now starting to track down local foods.
One lady contacted us because she wanted to buy local food.
She googled “ocal oats” and found us.’
Many would-be local food producers
dip their toes in the water by signing up to Country Markets, an enterprise
that organises and promotes events, such as the flourishing weekly market that
CPRE’s research highlighted in Sheffield. Jane Stammers, Project Manager for
Country Markets explains, ‘A lot of people want support to gain
It only costs 5p to
join us, and we provide members with guidelines on everything you need to know,
from how to get your kitchen registered for health and safety to public
members establish themselves in their own business.
Our ethos is that of a co-operative - you don’t have to do
it on your own.’
Some members only sell their
produce at certain times of year, such as when they have a glut of garden
Others become dedicated
stallholders, subsidising their household income by regularly selling a
particular food such as Yorkshire teacakes or home-made chutney. ‘We’re now
aiming to give our members another route to local markets, by opening a window
for them to supply their local community shops, garden centres and farm shops,”
If you feel enthused by reading
about so many different sources of delicious local food, why not get involved
in your own community’s food web by seeking out local products.
Quiz everyone from your local
shopkeeper to the local publican about where their food and drink comes from
and how it is produced.
not only link you closer to the land, but allow you to enjoy some fantastic
English produce right on your doorstep.
Support local foods
1 Take CPRE’s 30:30 eating challenge: try to make sure that 30% of your
food comes from within 30 miles of where you live.
Why not try it for a month and see what a difference it
2Ask in shops, supermarkets
and cafes and markets for locally sourced food.
3 Grow your own food!You
could get involved in a local Community Supported Agriculture scheme, or set up
your own community enterprise.
Visit http://www.makinglocalfoodwork.co.uk for advice and support.
4 Map your local food web using the Toolkit in the Resources section of http://www.cpre.org.uk - the information could be
used as evidence to shape policy and planning decisions.
5Put local food on the
agenda by lobbying councillors and your MP – if you care, they will care.